THOMAS BERLIN

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"With large format you are more creating a moment than capturing one." - Aleksander Stojanov in conversation with Thomas Berlin

Thomas Berlin: Aleks, you are shooting portraits and nudes on film. How would you describe your style? 

Aleksander Stojanow: I was always attracted by organic and analog form of art. Something that cannot be easily reproduced, something where small mistakes and imperfections make each piece unique. Like results of tape, or analog instruments, where every time you try to recreate or reproduce something, the outcome is slightly different. With my photography I try to create minimalistic photos, stripped of all distracting elements where the center of focus is the person or the emotion the photo emits. 

Thomas Berlin: Usually I would ask technical questions later in an interview. However, in your case, it would be helpful if readers learned more about your technical approach beforehand. You take photos with analog large format cameras. Before we dive into your equipment in depth, I want to ask you in general why you go a very long way in creating large format pints. There are much easier ways ...

Aleksander Stojanow: For me it is important that the photo or the captured moment is timeless, that there is no connection with time / or certain time-period – that the photo could have been taken 10 years ago, 1 year ago, today, or tomorrow. I think every photographer or artist at some point finds his own perfect tool for creating. And it becomes the prolongation of their body and soul. For me this was a large format camera. The process of composition on the big screen - for me, it is like time has stopped. It is almost like painting or directing a movie. You can see every little detail and you can affect it. You see where the light begins and where it ends. You see the quality of light. I always had problems with small cameras and the small viewfinders, I never could see the whole image at once, I could either focus on the person or the environment …in large format you just take a step back and you see everything. Almost like observing the final creation before making it.

Thomas Berlin: That sounds like a very emotional decision. This conviction seems to me to be a good basis for your work. What are your favorite cameras?

Aleksander Stojanow: Regarding my favorite camera I would say my 4x5 Stenopeika and the 4x5 Speed Graphic with the Aero Ektar. I also really really like my 8x10.

Thomas Berlin: Compared to your Graflex, your 8x10 camera is likely to be very bulky. Do you only use it in the studio? And could you outline when you would prefer 4x5 over 8x10? It would also be interesting what your favourite films are. 

Aleksander Stojanow: I try to use the 8x10 outside as much as I can. I think it shines best when shooting outdoors, because of the details, the sharpness and the 3D effect. But yes, it´s very heavy, the tripod is heavy, the lenses are heavy and the cassettes are very fragile, so you need to be super carefully not to damage them. But the results are always amazing. 

If I always had a helping hand, if 8x10 film was cheaper and if I had an 8x10 enlarger and if the day had 27 hours I would prefer 8x10. But you can do a lot with a 4x5 negative enlargement.

Regarding film I really like to use Ilford HP5 with DDX developer. You can push it quite high without affecting the contrast too much and even at box speed its very sensitive, and it´s affordable. Regarding color / slide film Ektachrome is my favorite. It´s just beyond magical in large format. 

Thomas Berlin: Could you describe the difference between large format and medium format cameras from the photographers perspective?

Aleksander Stojanow: Also, one of the reasons why shooting large format is so appealing for me is, that the compression of the image is almost non existing which makes the picture more appealing and natural for the human eye. 

Thomas Berlin: How many images are you taking during a shooting?

Aleksander Stojanow: During a shoot I usually take four to six 4x5 images and two to four 8x10 images. Almost never more, since developing the sheets of films takes a lot of time and if your backlog gets bigger and bigger you never catch up.

Thomas Berlin: How do the models react when you shoot analog with a camera from the last century which needs more time to work with and which cant show the shooting results immediately?

Aleksander Stojanow: I always meet with the models before the shoot for a coffee and try to explain everything – how the process and the workflow is.

Aleks large format cameras (left: 8x10, middle/right 4x5 inch)

Thomas Berlin: Are there specific requirements for models working for a large format photographer?

Aleksander Stojanow: Generally, it is not much different than shooting digital, it's just slower without spastic movements and 10.000 images. 

Thomas Berlin: Could you describe your shooting workflow?  

Aleksander Stojanow: First, I look for the pose, then the composition, I focus on the light-fall and after the perfect pose is found, the model always re-sits, so body and the muscles lock in the position naturally and they will not have to hold the pose too long. Also, what is very important for me are the edges and the geometry of the image. Everything has to work. I also learned to know my cameras and lenses blindly, so I can work very fast and the “moment” is as natural as it can be. Basically, with large format I think you are more creating a moment than capturing one.

Thomas Berlin: Aleks, what about the technical workflow after the shoot? Do you develop your own films? And can you tell me whether you will digitally post-process your pictures after scanning the negatives?

Aleksander Stojanow: On a perfect shot I am very pumped with energy so I immediately develop the films, scan them, sometimes even print the negatives in the night. Regularly I try to do it as fast after the shoot as my time allows it, since it's like an „Überraschungs-Ei“ and you want to see what is inside. Regarding the digital process, I only do the things I would do in the darkroom and clean the dust.

Thomas Berlin: When are you happy with a picture? 

Aleksander Stojanow: I am happy if the light-fall is good and if the expression is somehow honest and not faked. I get even happier when the negative is perfect without any marks ect., so I can print it in the darkroom. It is always hard loading and unloading the film in a non-laboratory environment without dust somehow sneaking inside.

Thomas Berlin: How do you deal with light?  

Aleksander Stojanow: Light is very important for me, so are the shadows, I always try to avoid shadows that would be disturbing on a print. Some disturbing elements are fine at the first glance, but become disturbing after a while, e.g. strong shadows under chin or shadows under the nose. I also try to make the light as soft as possible and the transition into shadows very smooth by using lots of reflectors. 

Thomas Berlin: How is your lightening setup because you mentioned your reflectors? And as far as I know large format lenses, with the exception of your Aero Ektar, are not the fastest lenses.

Aleksander Stojanow: Im not a big fan of one eye being too much out of focus or the nose being super out of focus, so I like to shoot with higher f-stops. Regarding my 8x10 camera we are talking about f22 and within 4x5 f11,  so I have sharpness but also a bit of dreaminess. As much as the Berlin sky allows it, I avoid studio lights, but it's not always possible. In my studio I have big windows and the weather app is on the main screen on my phone. If it is not possible to shoot with available light I try to imitate daylight with 3-4 studio lights with big octaboxes and reflectors.

Thomas Berlin: How do you prepare for a shoot? Do you develop specific ideas before shootings? 

Aleksander Stojanow: Before every shoot I try to take some time for myself, make notes for myself, I always go through my books or my saved images for inspiration. I try to remember what to try, what not to forget and what mistakes no to repeat, And I stick the notes close to my camera or my cassettes as a refresher.

Thomas Berlin: Your images show often beautiful females. How do you behave towards models? 

Aleksander Stojanow: I’m always respectful, I never cross any boundaries, if I see a model is tense or unrelaxed, I try to relax the situation with jokes, conversation before shooting. I think a relaxed environment gives the best results, an environment when the sitter can be themselves, so rushing is never a good idea.

Thomas Berlin: Do you have also other genres in photography? 

Aleksander Stojanow: At this moment I am only shooting people. Shooting landscapes does not interest me so much, but maybe in the future with some nice 8x10 slide film or low iso black and white film. 

Thomas Berlin: Do you have plans to publish a book due to show your work?

Aleksander Stojanow: It is a big wish to publish a book one day, I already started to work on some drafts, hopefully within the next 3 years I will make it happen. 

Thomas Berlin: Aleks, let me ask you a little more about yourself. How did you get into photography? And what is your education in photography?

Aleksander Stojanow: Before photography, I was making music. The music was mostly made with old analog equipment where the imperfection and the small mistakes & glitches attracted me, and at some point, after I moved to Berlin, I realized that analog photography can give me the same organic results as before the music did. In connection with music I was also traveling / touring and I was meeting new people every day. On one trip I took a camera with me, a Canon AE1, and I started photographing those faces I met and I realized I really like taking pictures of people and somehow this became a big passion.  I never studied photography, my education is a Lawyer, but I don’t work in the law field. Currently I am not working full time as a photography, it is a big passion, but not a full-time job yet.

Aleks Stojanov with model during a shoot. Image: Rodrigo Bardin.

Thomas Berlin: You are selling prints. Could you tell me what kind of prints and which sizes sells well? And what is your distribution channel? 

Aleksander Stojanow: Before the Corona era, I was mostly gifting prints to family, friends, and models. And if someone ordered a special print, I made it and sold it, always within the limited numbers of course, but with Covid and lockdown, I focused more on selling and promoting prints online. I’m very happy that I started doing this. I see a lot of people are interested, for which I am grateful, and I will continue to make prints and series. I’m currently working on a proper web shop and proper website. I always focus all my energy into photography and darkroom and there is always a lack of energy to be focused to the online promotion and presentation. 

Thomas Berlin: Can you tell me your best reason photographing people and producing fine art prints?

Aleksander Stojanow: Holding a fine art print in your hands is another world in comparison to a picture on your monitor or phone.  And being in the darkroom shaking that tray, just you, music, and the red light. It is an amazing feeling. 

Thomas Berlin: What are your hobbies or interests besides photography?

Aleksander Stojanow: Besides, Photography I would say that music has still a big part of my life and besides that definitely good food. 

Thomas Berlin: Aleks, thank you so much for your insights. Good luck with your book project! 


You can find Aleks work on Instagram.

Attachment September 2022: Two behind the scenes-images from one of Aleks recent shoots with model Margot

Images: © Aleksander Stojanov